By Lance A. Birk, author of GROWING CYMBIDIUM ORCHIDS AT HOME (new edition to soon be released)

Origin of Cymbidium Hybrid Orchids

Most of the parent species of the great myriad of the modern Cymbidium orchid hybrids originate in the temperate highlands of Southeast Asia, India and China. They are warm, to cool growing plants and are normally found growing on trees, however for our cultural purposes, we call them terrestrial plants. Surprising to most people, they are also termed 'half-hardy', and they require relatively higher light levels than do most other orchids.

Care for your Flowering Plant

For ideal results, place your flowering Cymbidium plant in a cool, brightly lit part of the home, out of the path of the heating vent airflow. If you have a location near gently moving and cool air currents, your plant will be happier and the flowers will last longer.

You can also enjoy your plant outside on the lawn or on a bright patio, sheltered from direct, noontime sun. Plants should always be placed on flat stones, bricks or concrete blocks to prevent root-damage caused by entry from worms, snails or other pests. Good air circulation is most beneficial. Do avoid strong winds and temperatures below freezing, or above 90ºF.

Water your plant at least once a week with a thorough soaking. If the plant is exposed to more sunlight and warmth, it may require more frequent watering. Do not allow the potting compound to become completely dry. With appropriate care, you can enjoy your flowering Cymbidium for 6 or more weeks.

Care for your Plant after Flowering

Given the proper care and feeding, and in most temperate climates, it is possible to re-flower your Cymbidium plant the following year. (Re-flowering can be difficult in areas with warm nighttime temperatures, however there are some cymbidiums which are hybridized to circumvent this problem.) After the flowers have expired, cut off the flower spikes at their base, with a sharp pair of clippers.

At this time, (or even while the plant is in bloom), the plant will begin a vegetative phase during these summer months. This is the time for the plant to build up the energy required to make growths from which the new flowers will be produced. In order to facilitate this process and to give your plant its best chances to make more flowers, it should be placed outside where it will be sheltered from direct sunlight during the midday. Full sun during morning and afternoon hours is good.

Watering should be done frequently, perhaps even twice per week. The addition of fertilizer during 3 out of 4 of those irrigations will help greatly. Use a balanced fertilizer, high in nitrogen such as 30-10-10, and mix it only half-strength as directed on the label.

At the end of the summer months (early September in the northern hemisphere), the plant should have developed sturdy new growths (pseudobulbs), with 8 or more leaves in total. The plant now needs to enter the critical flower initiation stage. Just as in nature, a little stress is needed to induce flowering. Move your plant into a brighter spot if possible, and water thoroughly with unfertilized water for 1 week; then do not water for at least 1 week.

Temperatures should have dropped during the nighttime by Summer's end, and the added stress from this will help to initiate the flowering hormones. Flower spikes (seen as growths with a sharp tip) should begin to appear starting in September.

Continue with a regular watering schedule, but at this time you should use a fertilizer high in potassium, but LOW in nitrogen, with a ratio such as 6-6-30. Do not forget to dilute the fertilizer to half the recommend rate stated on the label. Always maintain the potting soil moist, but not wet.

Keep a watchful eye on rots during the darker and cooler months of fall and winter. Decrease watering and increase air circulation during those dark periods. Fertilizing may be greatly reduced, or even eliminated from mid-November until early spring.

As flower spikes begin to appear, you can move your plant to a shadier spot in order for the flowers to produce cleaner and clearer colors. On the other hand, reds, pinks and browns will develop deeper shades if left in the brighter light. In order to maintain a pleasing rank of flower placement, do not move the plant during the budding stage unless it is replaced in the same north-south orientation. Once all the flowers are open, they will no longer twist to face the light.

Temperatures

Summertime: Ideal nighttime temperatures should range around 60º, with daytime temperatures below 90ºF.

Winter: Cymbidium orchids can stand nighttime temperatures into the high 30ºs in the winter, but the low to mid 40ºs are better. Daytime temperatures at this time are best in the 60ºs.

These orchids also need humidity and it should range around 40% or above if possible, during the entire year. Pool and lawn areas, as well as placement close to nearby plants, all help to raise the humidity. Spraying with a misting nozzle attached to a hose will help during those hot and dry times.

Keep a watchful eye on snails and slugs at all times, particularly during the spiking/flowering stage. Spider mites love the leaves, and they can frequently be controlled by a strong spray from a misting nozzle, to the undersides of the leaves. Aphids can also be controlled by washing them off with the misting nozzle. Early action is always the key to controlling all pests or rotting problems.